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    D103 Breakdown

    去Haridwar的汽车在距离阿姆利则75公里的地方抛了锚,大半车的印度人蜂拥下车,匆匆搭autorickshaw或者汽车离开了。剩下一些走长途的,只能在原地等候。我是车上唯一的外国人,身边的这些印度人都不怎么会说英语,售票员大叔尽力告诉我“No problem”,意思是他们会把车修好的,让我放心。
     
    我确实很放心,在不知道是什么地方的公路中央,周围没有一个能说英语的人,除了对这辆车和车上的人放心我还能做什么呢?车子再启程是三个半小时之后,本来空空的车厢很快又被蜂拥而上的印度人填满。售票员大叔很照顾我,对我嘘寒问暖,车还没坐满的时候,他尽量不让人坐到我旁边,让我单独坐着,怕挤到我。
     
    比起铁轨我还是更喜欢公路一些,铁轨的周围总是农田和荒芜,一到晚上便漆黑一片,而一条公路可以经过更多地方,农田、荒芜、市镇、人群,即便是在晚上也有灯火。行驶在公路上的时候,总是能更多地感受到漂泊。
     
    车在清晨到达Haridwar,接着转车去Rishikesh。在旅馆里脱下鞋子,发现左脚掌上又多了一个泡又多了一些老茧。这双脚看上去确实有些沧桑。2009年我跑了不少步,也走了很多路,或许要多过以往的任何一年。仅就这一点来说,我对这一年确实很满意。在行走,在向前,除此之外还能再乞求什么呢?汽车抛锚在路上的三个半小时里始终没有焦躁不安,这也是一个困境,但有些时候除了静静等待之外别无他法。

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